A Winter Guide to Finland – Offbeat, Wild and Full of Magic

Finland is the very definition of a Winter Wonderland – frozen lakes, white-draped forests that look straight out of a fairytale, magical roads winding through snow-covered landscapes, and night skies that come alive with the northern lights. Add to that some unique stays and unforgettable experiences, and you’ve got a destination that feels nothing short of magical.

No matter how many days you spend in Finland, it somehow never feels enough. And I can vouch for that. I was still not ready to leave after 8 wonderful days in the country. While Finland offers plenty of popular, touristy things to do (and rightly so), we were drawn more towards its untamed wilderness and authentic Lappish charm. So, we planned our itinerary a little differently, mixing in some iconic spots with offbeat stays and lesser-known experiences. Here’s our complete guide to experiencing a Finnish winter the way we did – raw, real, and absolutely magical.

Itinerary For Finland 

Like I mentioned earlier, this isn’t your typical Finland itinerary. For one, we combined our Finland adventure with Tromsø in Norway – which meant we approached the trip a little differently, both in terms of planning and travel flow.

We started our Finland trip from Kilpisjärvi (a remote Arctic village near the Norway border) instead of Helsinki where most people start. And then proceeded towards north and finally came back via Helsinki. Here is what we did.

Itinerary Breakdown and Things to Do

Kilpisjärvi – 2 Nights

If you are following our itinerary and coming via the Arctic bus from Tromsø , you will reach Kilpisjärvi around 11am – giving you two full days in this serene Arctic village. Use this time to explore the charming village on foot, soak in the slow, peaceful rhythm of Arctic life, or indulge in a few winter adventures. And if the skies are clear, you’re in for a real treat. Kilpisjärvi is said to have aurora sightings on nearly 75% of nights, and we were lucky enough to witness that magic ourselves. Now, let’s dive into the details.

Day 1: Three country border point and Northern Lights Tour

Drop your bags at the hotel and grab an early lunch. As check-in is usually around 4 PM, make the most of your arrival day by heading out on a tour. Choose between Husky Sledding and Three Country Border Point tour (unique to this place) depending on what may be available for that day.

The Three-Country Cairn Tour is truly one-of-a-kind – you can literally walk through Finland, Sweden, and Norway in seconds! Located on a man-made island a few kilometres from Kilpisjärvi, this is where the three borders meet. And in winter, it’s only accessible via a snowmobile tour which itself is half the adventure. Once there, we sipped hot berry juice, snacked on local treats, and couldn’t stop giggling as everyone ran around the signpost like excited kids, trying to stand in all three countries at once.

In the evening, try your luck from your stay or join an Aurora Tour – either way, you can’t go wrong in Kilpisjärvi. If the skies are clear, you can see the lights  dance overhead without needing to go far. But there’s something special about heading out with fellow travellers, sharing stories by a crackling fire, and sipping hot berry juice under the vast, mystical Arctic sky. 

Day 2: Husky Sledding, Sauna and evening at leisure

On this day, you can opt for another thrilling activity, Husky Sledding. The happy huskies, endless snowfields, and frozen wilderness make this an unforgettable adventure. After the activity, it’s time to thaw your senses (and everything else, quite literally 😉 )in the comforting warmth of a Finnish sauna. When the world outside is frozen at -15°C, slipping into a hot sauna feels nothing short of divine. Most accommodations in Finland come equipped with saunas – some private, others shared. We were fortunate to have a private sauna in our glass igloo, and after a long snowy day, it was the perfect sanctuary to unwind. 

In the evening, take a stroll around the area, enjoy the sunset and have an early dinner. Now its time to wait for the mystical lights to appear in the sky. And when they do, they come in the most amazing colours and shapes to take your breath away. Wrapped in blankets and coffee in hand, you can enjoy this ethereal show right from your igloo bed or just outside your cottages. 

This turned out to be our lucky day – we witnessed a breathtaking red and green aurora right from our igloo! Just as we were about to head out for dinner, the sky erupted in colour, and we couldn’t bring ourselves to look away. We stood rooted in awe, trading a meal for magic, because in that moment, dinner paled in comparison to the wonder unfolding above us.

Kilpisjärvi is not touristy, so unlike Rovaniemi or other popular destinations, it doesn’t offer endless tour options. There are only two tour operators here – Kilpis Safaris and Destination Kilpisjärvi – each offering limited number of tours with fixed timings. These tend to fill up quickly, so it’s best to book your tours well in advance to secure your preferred experiences and plan your days accordingly. 

Accommodation in Kilpisjärvi

Though Kilpisjärvi is a small village, it doesn’t fall short on facilities or comfort. From hotels and log cabins to heated glass igloos –  the accommodation options are varied and surprisingly affordable compared to more touristy parts of Finland. That’s exactly why we chose to stay in a glass igloo here instead of the more popular Saariselkä.

We stayed at Tundrea Holiday Resort, which offers cozy wooden huts and heated glass igloos. We chose the latter and honestly, to say we had the time of our lives would be a huge understatement. During our two nights there, we woke up to the majestic Sana Fell, had breakfast overlooking a snowy wilderness dotted with bare birch trees and ended our days wrapped in warmth, watching countless stars and breathtaking auroras. It didn’t feel real – those days felt like a dream we’d somehow stepped into.

Food in Kilpisjärvi

Kilpisjärvi has a small supermarket (near the petrol pump) where you can find packaged food, fresh fruits, and bakery items. But I’d highly recommend trying at least one meal at a local restaurant. Maybe it was the cold weather or the surreal views, but everything we ate in Kilpisjärvi tasted incredible.

We especially enjoyed our meals at Tundrea Restaurant (perfect for a cozy dinner) and Ravintola Kilpis, located right beside the supermarket. Both places offer warm hospitality, scenic views, and surprisingly good vegan options. The Tofu and Chicken salad bowls at Ravintola Kilpis were our favourites. And don’t miss the hot berry juice with a splash of local liquor – tastes divine after a snowy adventure in the cold.

Rovaniemi – 3 Nights

Day 1: Reach Rovaniemi and Rest for the night

After you have relished the remote wilderness of Kilpisjärvi (though it never feels enough), it is time to head to the bustling city of Rovaniemi. Take the Arctic bus from Kilpisjärvi – it takes around 6-7 hours to reach Rovaniemi with a couple of stops in between. I literally kept my eyes glued to the window all through the bus journey since the views were incredible all the way. Its definitely one of the most scenic routes in Finland. 

You’ll arrive in Rovaniemi by evening, so settle into your accommodation, enjoy a hearty dinner, and rest for the night.

Bus Travel Tips

• Book your arctic bus ticket online from the Arctic Bus official website. 
• The bus is comfortable with free Wi-Fi, an onboard toilet, and plenty of luggage space. Just a heads-up: the overhead compartments are small, so it’s best to carry a compact handbag or backpack with your essentials.
• Grab a seat on the right side of the bus – the views are even better from there!
• If you are vegetarian or vegan, carry some food for the bus journey. All the supermarkets the bus stopped at did not offer much in terms of vegetarian or vegan food. And whatever was available could not be ready in the break time (usually 15-20 mins).
• Check which Rovaniemi stop is closest to your accommodation, as the Arctic Bus has multiple stops in the city. From there, you can take a taxi if required. We used Uber and found it more competitively priced than other operators.

Day 2: Day trip to Santa Clause Village. Evening at riverside

It’s not every day you find yourself in Santa’s hometown. So, dedicate this day to exploring the Santa Claus Village, just a short bus ride from Rovaniemi city centre. The moment you step into the village, it feels like walking straight into Christmas – festive music in the air, twinkling lights, snowmen, decorated trees, and charming gift shops all around. And then, you’ll spot it – a wooden façade with a sign that says, “Santa is here.”

Go meet Santa (he truly is as sweet and friendly as you’d hope!), get your pictures taken, explore the village, shop for souvenirs, and sip on hot chocolate at one of the cozy cafes. And whatever you do, don’t miss the Reindeer Sleigh Ride – gliding through the quiet snow-covered forest that truly feels enchanted (as you can see in the first photo above).

You can book the reindeer sleigh ride from the official website. We opted for the 2-3 km ride that gives just enough time to savour this magical experience without feeling rushed.

Santa’s Village – Know before you go

• To reach Santa’s village, take bus number 8 from Rovaniemi City Centre. The ride takes around 20 mins and costs 3 – 4 Euros. The buses run every 45 mins. Check schedule here.
• You can also take the airport shuttle buses from Rovaniemi  that stop at Santa’s village. They will normally have a small board on the front saying Santa Claus village. Confirm with the driver once before boarding. 
• There is no entry fee for Santa’s village or even for meeting Santa. But taking pictures with him costs money. Because you can not use your camera or phone for taking pictures. Their staff take the pictures and you can buy those if you want.
• The charge for a printed photograph is 40 Euros. And they charge 55 Euros for downloading the soft copies. 

Once you are done with all the fun at Santa Claus Village, finish your lunch and head back to Rovaniemi. In the evening, I would recommend taking a stroll by the riverside and watch the sun go down. It’s a peaceful spot to pause and take in the view of the iconic Lumberjack’s Candle Bridge stretching across the frozen river. 

Day 3: Snow Shoeing Adventure and Snow Hotel Visit

Snow shoeing is a great way to experience the true wilderness of Finnish Lapland that literally gives off all the Narnia vibes. We booked it just the night before as we wanted to do something different and it turned out to be the highlight of our Rovaniemi trip. Our guide drove us to a quiet hill just outside the city where we donned our snow shoes and the adventure began. 

We made our way to the top amidst a magical forest that belongs in a fairytale, and nowhere else – trees heavy with snow, their branches sparkling as the morning sun played hide and seek. And sparkling flurries danced in the air each time we shook a branch. It was a morning of careless snow ball fights, looking for the forest dwellers following pug marks in the snow (no luck there though) and then warming up at the top with steaming tea and cookies, surrounded by stunning panoramic views.

Note:

• This tour depends heavily on snow conditions and is only possible when there’s enough snow on the ground (best in peak Winter). During our visit in March, it was still a bit uncertain. So, if you’re visiting in late winter, it’s wise to check with the operator in advance – and have a few backup activities in mind, just in case.
• We booked this snowshoeing tour and would happily recommend it. Our guide, Rafael, was friendly, genuine, and clearly passionate about both guiding and photography. Though he had a bit of a rocky start with the snowshoes, his enthusiasm and cheerful spirit more than made up for it. 

After the snowshoeing adventure, grab lunch in the city and then head to one of the most unique hotels in the world – the Arctic Snow Hotel, located just 30 kms outside of Rovaniemi. This man-made marvel is rebuilt entirely from ice each year in November and stays till April.

The rooms are all sculpted from ice, each having a unique theme and beautiful carvings. We just took a guided tour, but if you’re drawn to one-of-a-kind stays, spending a night here is an adventure in itself. And even if you don’t stay the night, don’t miss having a drink at the Ice Bar. Because where else can you sip a drink served in a glass made of ice, seated at a table made of ice? Or take it a step further and dine at the Ice Restaurant, which feels like you’ve walked into the private dining hall of the Ice Queen herself!

Know Before You Go

• There are several tours from Rovaniemi to the Arctic Snow Hotel. Some of the tours include dinner at the Ice Restaurant or access to the sauna. After seeing the restaurant, I can confidently say dining there would be an unforgettable experience – highly recommended.
• If you are planning to stay overnight, check their official website for current rates and details. A few things to note:
  • The rooms don’t have bathrooms – heated communal toilets are located outside.
  • You can’t bring your luggage inside the ice rooms. 
  • Thermal sleeping bags are provided to keep you warm.

Note

We didn’t take any Aurora tours in Rovaniemi, as we had already witnessed incredible displays in Tromsø and Kilpisjärvi. But if you haven’t been lucky yet or simply want to experience it again –  add it to one of your evenings in Rovaniemi.

Accommodation in Rovaniemi

I’d recommend staying in Rovaniemi’s City Centre for easy access to restaurants, cafes, supermarkets, and bus stops.  We chose a small studio Airbnb instead of a hotel.  Because it was more affordable than the city’s hotel options and came equipped with all the basic amenities. 

Though compact, the apartment was thoughtfully decorated (with candies on bed to welcome us 🙂 ) and just a 10-minute walk from everything we needed. The only downside was the very small bathroom, which felt a bit stuffy. But for the location and price, it is a good choice.

Food in Rovaniemi

Rovaniemi is full of amazing cafes and restaurants. But nothing beats the food at Roka Street Bistro, our personal favourite. The food was so good, I genuinely started plotting how to kidnap the chef and bring him back with us (kidding… or am I? 😉 ).

Their salmon soup, salads, and glögi (available in both alcoholic and non-alcoholic versions) were simply divine. The place is quite small, so expect a bit of a wait during peak hours.

Another great find, especially with ample vegetarian and vegan options, was Café Bar 21, recommended by our host. They serve creative dishes built on a waffle base, along with a variety of tempting desserts. Their mulled wine is also perfect to warm up on cold evenings.

There were 2 other restaurants recommended by locals – Nili Restaurant and Gustav Kitchen and Bar. Unfortunately, we had to skip both as their menus were heavily meat-based with no vegetarian options available at the time.

Inari – 1 Night

It’s time to leave the city behind and head further north, into the heart of Finnish Lapland. A 5 hour scenic bus journey from Rovaniemi will take you to Inari – Home to Finland’s third-largest lake (Yes, Lake Inari – no prize for guessing 😉 and one of the best places to witness the Northern Lights. 

We chose Inari solely for the stay experience and to bask in the arctic stillness before going back to the real world again (because this was definitely a dream 🙂 ). Inari offers a handful of cozy hotels and cottages, but our hearts were set on the Lake Inari Mobile Cabins – and it truly turned out to be the night of our lives. 

It’s hard to believe how much we experienced in just one night. A snowy evening in a traditional Finnish sauna. Dinner around a crackling fire, listening to old Finnish stories in the warmest little hut.  Afterwards, our cabin was towed by a snowmobile to the frozen lake Inari where we spent the night. And that night… it felt unreal! Lying in our cosy bed, surrounded by icy stillness under the most romantic moonlit night, we watched the Northern Lights dance above. It must’ve been hours before our tired eyes gave up and we fell asleep, still gazing at the magical arctic sky.

Note:

• Despite being out on a frozen lake, the mobile glass cabins stay comfortably warm, thanks to an efficient oil heater. They even have a small portable toilet inside.
• We went to Inari with no agenda – just to unwind and do nothing. But if you’re up for some adventure, there are activities on offer like ice fishing, dog sledding, and more. 

Curious to know more? Read the full story of our Lake Inari experience.

Helsinki – 2 Nights

Day 1: Take flight back from Ivalo to Helsinki

After a memorable time at Inari, its time to say good bye to the true arctic. Take the airport shuttle from Inari to Ivalo. And catch the flight back to Helsinki. You will mostly reach Helsinki by evening. So take a leisurely walk, enjoy a nice dinner and go to bed early. 

Day 2:  Visit Suomenlinna sea Fortress

On this day, you’ve got two options – visit the Suomenlinna Sea Fortress near Helsinki or take a day trip to Tallinn in Estonia. We chose the former and spent the rest of the day exploring locally.

A quick 15-20-minute ferry ride from Helsinki’s Market Square (Kauppatori) takes you to Suomenlinna, a UNESCO World Heritage site that feels like it’s frozen in time. Once built as a military stronghold, today it’s a peaceful retreat steeped in history and old-world charm. Think snow-dusted ramparts, winding cobbled paths, hidden stone tunnels, rugged sea cliffs, and pastel-hued houses.

Once you arrive, pick up a map from the visitor centre and follow the self-guided trail around the main sights. As people still live on the island, be mindful not to wander into private areas. For us, the highlight was standing at the edge of the fortress walls, snow beneath our boots and the icy blue sea stretching endlessly ahead – a striking contrast and a first for us. Before catching the ferry back, stop by Café Vanille (right in front of the church) – a tiny, cozy cafe where the warm soup and baked goodies are just what you need after the chill outside.

Tips

• The ferry terminal is located near the bridge, right next to the beautiful Uspenski Cathedral. Ferries run frequently throughout the day between the city and Suomenlinna. You can find more about ferry schedules here.
• You can book your ferry tickets easily using the HSL app or directly from the ticket machines at the dock. You need to purchase an AB ticket for Suomenlinna.

Note

• Reaching the city from the Airport:The train is the easiest way to get into Helsinki, with the station right below the terminal. Buses are also available just outside. We were staying in Katajanokka, which meant switching from a train  (or bus) to a tram with luggage. So we chose a taxi instead on that wet and cold day. Pick whatever feels most comfortable based on where you’re staying and the weather.

• Tram ride is a must!: While you’re in Helsinki, make time for a tram ride, not just as transport but as an experience in itself. Gliding past elegant streets, harbours, and quiet neighbourhoods, the tram is the most convenient way to explore Helsinki. You can book tickets online using the HSL mobile app.

Accommodation in Helsinki

When it comes to accommodation, Helsinki’s City Centre is undoubtedly the most preferred option. You are close to the train station, major sights and have easy access to everything. So, if you are planning to spend 3-4 days in the city, this would be the best choice. 

There are also several lovely neighbourhoods just around the city centre that offer great accommodation options with their own unique charm. Here is an amazing blog by a Helsinki local that talks in detail about each area with pros and cons and comes with some good recommendations. Have a look before you decide.

We, however, had only one full day in Helsinki and knew we wanted to visit Suomenlinna. So we chose to stay in Katajanokka — and it turned out to be a wonderful decision. Staying here meant we were just a short walk from the ferry terminal to Suomenlinna and also close to the stunning Uspenski Cathedral, which I had always wanted to see. The area has some great cafes and restaurants budget friendly accommodations. We definitely recommend it if you are in Helsinki for a shorter period. 

We stayed in a compact studio at Noli Katajanokka II –  a no-fuss, well-equipped, and comfortable space that worked perfectly for us. It’s literally a stone’s throw from Uspenski Cathedral, the pier, and a supermarket, which made everything so convenient. Tram access is right across the street, making it easy to explore the city. They even have a terrace sauna that comes highly recommended, but we couldn’t make time for it. 

Food in Helsinki

Helsinki offers plenty of options when it comes to food – not just Finnish food, but restaurants serving cuisines from all over the world. Think of Indian, Chinese, Vietnamese, Georgian and you will get it all. The best part is many of them offer vegetarian and vegan options. We tried 2 restaurants and absolutely recommend both.

• Restaurant Fly Fusion: If you’re craving comforting Vietnamese flavours, this cosy little spot feels almost like dining in someone’s home. The hosts are incredibly warm and welcoming, and helpful in choosing the food. We absolutely loved the Teriyaki Tofu plate — flavourful, wholesome, and perfectly balanced. Their Kimchi deserves a special mention too.

• Gastro Hub: Serves amazing Georgian food in a very aesthetic intimate setting. If you are looking for a slow meal with your partner after a day of sightseeing, then this is the place to be. They have a great collection of wines and their Grilled Chicken is hands down the best I have had so far. I would recommend going with a reservation since they seemed to turn away people without it. 

Planning the Trip – Other things to know

1. Keep at least 8-10 days for Finland: This beautiful country has so much to offer that anything shorter will feel rushed. Plus, when you’re investing in expensive flight tickets from far-off places like India, it’s only wise to make the most of your time at the destination.
2. Best time to visit: Dec-March is good time to visit Finland to enjoy Winter Wonderland experience and snow activities. But if you want more daylight for the activities and sightseeing, Feb mid to March is a great time. We went in the beginning of March and it was wonderful.
3. Aurora Season: For seeing aurora, October to March is the ideal time. The aurora displays were quite strong and frequent on our visit due to stronger solar activity predicted for 2024-25. But remember Finland is much more than just the aurora.
4. Do not overpack: Dragging heavy luggage around in snow isn’t fun. Most activity operators provide thermal overalls and snow boots, which keep you warm during excursions. So, pack light – you won’t need too much winter wear.
5. Activity Choices: I have not included some of the activities in this itinerary such as Sami camp visit and Reindeer Feeding, Ice Floating etc. It is because we visited both Norway and Finland on this trip. So activities are divided. 
6. Ice Floating vs Ice Breaker Cruise: We skipped the Ice Breaker cruise in Finland and rather opted for an Arctic Ice Floating trip in Tromsø. It was much cheaper and was personalised. If you want to experience ice floating, few operators provide that in Rovaniemi. Check and book beforehand as the slots are limited.

Shopping Pointers

If you’re planning to pick up a few souvenirs or gifts, here are my recommendations.

Chocolates, fruit teas, and Lumene cosmetics are top picks! For chocolates, we actually found the variety and deals at the airport shops better than in the local supermarkets – definitely worth checking before your flight.

For tea lovers, do try the fruit teas, especially the Cloudberry Tea – it smells divine and is such a unique Nordic treat! This tea has become my saviour on cranky days 😉 . 

And while you’re in Finland, don’t leave without grabbing a few items from Lumene Cosmetics. I personally love their Valo serum and CC cream.

As for winter wear, while coats and jackets were quite pricey, I found the mittens and beanies I picked up there to be exceptional. They were far more effective in the cold than my bulky gloves back home and looked pretty too!

Conclusion

I had read countless blogs and watched endless videos about Finland, but honestly, nothing truly prepares you for the magic of experiencing it in person. Especially for someone like me, with little exposure to winter destinations, it felt like stepping into a snow globe – surreal and unforgettable. And now, both Sush and I are already dreaming of going back someday to relive the magic all over again.

If you’ve been to Finland, we’d love to hear your must-do experiences. Drop them in the comments so that we can add them to our list for the next trip! For any queries, drop us a note, and we’ll get back to you as soon as we can.

Planning for Norway and Finland together? Read our other blogs here.